Module 2 Chapter 1 Opus Anglicanum

In this chapter I looked more fully at the English Medieval Embroidery Opus Anglicanum.

My main reference is the book 'English Medieval Embroidery Opus Anglicanum' V&A Museum which I purchased when visiting their exhibition in 2017.

Took a number of photos while looking around the exhibition, sketching examples, and collecting some postcards.

Further sketches were produced in a notebook as I observed and familiarised myself with particular pieces.

Chapter 12 Stage 6 Proposal for a resolved embroidered item

Following on from the earlier design work for this module and in particular Chapter 12, I have selected some ideas, towards a completed embroidered item.

Eventually, I hope to produce four assessment pieces

• Functional 3-dimensional piece
• A wall-hanging (soft) or panel
• Metallic piece
• Large scale piece (greater than 1 metre)

Initially, I'll be working with 1 or 2 items that are 3-dimensional to follow up in Module 2.

I started by producing a web of ideas:

I want to produce an item for the home using cotton, recycling materials where possible, working on designs related to the bathroom, and expanding my thoughts:

The ideas are recorded on A3 white Khadi paper in a zig zag book.

BATH ROBE OR TUNIC

From the above, I decided to develop further the tunic or bath robe and laundry box, the first a garment the second a vessel or storage box.

I used the cut coloured design pieces A,B,C and D, rearranging them into different shapes, taking a number of photographs to show possible designs.  The motif designs are either shown earlier in the chapter or in the zig zag presentation below.

I prefer the main fabric in orange, with motifs in the complementary colour blue.

The garment could be either a slip-over tunic with or without sleeves, tied or not at the waist OR a front opening robe with long or short sleeves, fastened at the front. 

Ideally the fabric, possibly towelling enhanced with further stitch, could be used inside out  (reversible).

The design work includes ideas for fabrics, belts, fastenings, seam stitching, edge decorations, hems, necklines, sleeves or not, and motif arrangements front and back.  The main body of the work could be panelled or not.

I envisage reusing possibly one towel folded in half for a child, or two large bath towels for an adult - extending the life of towels that might otherwise be thrown out.

To acquire the required colour plain towels may need to be dyed if the desired colour is not available.

STORAGE BOX

The other 3-D item could be a storage box with a lid, to store rolled or flat folded towels.

This could be a box that is light and easy to carry, to sit on or not.

The design ideas are on two pages, following on form the work above, shown on Khadi paper to complete the Zig zag presentation.  

Ideally the colours used would be predominantly orange with blue motifs, using towelling fabric enhanced with additional stitch.

  

The information provided includes dimensions for a rectangular box with a lid, either made of 6 panels of fabric or 6 panels of woven fabric, also showing seam stitching, decorative edges, lid, hinges, fasteners, hinges and various different motif arrangements.  For seating, the frame would need wooden panelling below the fabric layer.

Marie Kondo has a technique for storing items, which could be applied to towels and this method would be considered in the design.

I would be happy to take either project further in Module 2.

In addition, I would like to consider the possibility of including simple patterns, stencils and ways of decorating either 3-D item.  

If the idea is to recycle and reuse, someone in the household may welcome simple instructions on how to make the robe or box.

Module 1 Chapter 12 contd Towards an embroidered item

This is a continuation of an original blog Cottoningon1
Having prepared a number of fabrics, this now leads to Stage 4.

Stage 4 - Cut up fabrics into separate shapes
In order to select shapes I looked through previous work in this module, helped by my La Groupe friends and Sian.
The two chosen for the smaller motifs came from Chapters 4 and 9.
To help produce multiple copies I used and made stencils of the shapes.  There were 3 sizes of each shape.  They were drawn on the back of two blue made fabric.  Shapes A and B respectively.

Shape A

Flowing organic shape

Shape B

Liked Ben Nicholson use of a round shape, selecting a circle relevant to my designs

Insert photo Shape A and B 

I chose blue fabrics for the motifs, and orange fabrics for background features.

Insert photos showing double images on pages

The two designs chosen for the background fabric, both in orange came from Chapters 11 and 9.
The design in Chapter 11 was a simplified drawing of folded towels (Shape C), to accompany Shape A.  I just like this design referencing the Ben Nicholson ideas in my work.
The design in Chapter 9 was a simplified drawing of towels hanging from a towel rail (Shape D), to accompany Shape B.  This design accompanied the oval motif in other Chapter 9 designs.  I feel they well together.
Both could be drawings of lines across the back of the full A4 fabric pieces.

Shape C

Here there are 5 pieces with alternating curved edges

Shape D

This is made of 6 pieces mirror image of the original

Using free machining produced double lines of stitch either side of the drawn lines.  Then used small sharp scissors to cut between each double line of stitch to release the shapes.
As well as using the individually cut motifs, used the negative left in the fabric.
These are A4 Shapes E and F

Shape E rolled into 3-D image

Shape F laid flat on Khadi paper

Stage 5 - Arranging shapes in interesting compositions
I had great fun just arranging and re-arranging the pieces.
I took loads of digital photos as a new design idea developed.
I didn't stitch them together, but did consider how the motifs or backgrounds might work together.
They ranged from an haphazard free fall arrangement, arranging into patterns with or without rhythms, stacking, interlaced, woven together, arranged alongside or spaced apart.  So many combinations.
One thought I had was to use shape A and let them hang on a central thread form one to the next.  I could see it as a spiralling arrangement.

To give a flavour of the design shapes, here are just a few samples

• Four of 17 using only shape A (See also Stage 6)

Randomly scattered

All the same size, just touching

Spiral stack

Random interlocking

• Four of 12 using only shape B (See also Stage 6)

Random

Four overlain

All pieces In quarters halved again

Broken pyramid

• Two of 7 3-D shapes using Shape E  (See also Stage 4 above)

Rolled with two pieces added on windowsill

Upended on windowsill

• Two 3-D shapes from Shape F

A4 Negative piece encased in plastic wallet on windowsill

Window hanging A4 negative piece interlocked with at least 7 motifs

• Two of 4 designs interwoven combining Shape A and C (See also Stage 6)

• Two of 7 designs interwoven combining Shape B and D 

• And four other - mixed combinations of several others

Scattered Shapes A showing mostly back of motifs

Scattered Shapes A showing front of motifs

Large cotton reel supporting Shape E with additions from Shape C 

Window hanging Shape F with interwoven pieces form Shape D

Consequently, several design ideas were produced: 

• arranged motifs to add to different surfaces, such as lids, clothing, sides of boxes
• vessels
• lampshades
• window, curtain hangings for windows or showers  

Plastic was added to some, but today because of the concern for the environment, would prefer not to use plastic.